clubhouse customs

The factory strut brace wouldnt fit with the new intake, so I came up with a new one.

I had the brackets laser cut, and bent, and then I welded them up and drilled the shock tower mounting holes. The brace itself is 4130 with 1/2″ rod ends. 

The new brace will allow me to enlarge the hole in the top of the shock tower so I can get the springs out easier for doing bump steer measurements etc. I’ll prob get that cut out wed night.

Anyway…. pics

Dan

Big progress again tonight.

Finished assembing the modified rack.

Removed the power steering rack, pump, lines, cooler etc.

Mounted the idler pulley (Dayco p/n 89028 - thanks Kyle for reminding me of the application) by drilling out the middle ps pump mount hole. I still need to machine up a real spacer and get a longer bolt, but otherwise thats done. The tensioner ended up in almost the exact right spot, according to the pointer and marker on the two halves.

Installed the new rack, completly torqued etc.

I weighed everything quickly and it looks like the swap removed about 13-15lbs, not bad.

Dan

After almost totally borking the site this am, Mark got it all fixed up for me!

Thanks Mark!!!!

Love ,

Dan

Almost finished the rack “depowering”. Its really pretty simple. I basically followed these instrucitons: http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php?x=1

I didnt take step by step pics, so Ill explain quickly.

1. Remove C clip from the column side of the rack (this will allow the pinion shaft to be removed later)

2. Remove the large lock nut (I had to beat it loose with a brass drift), the adjustment nut, spring and support yoke,

3. Remove the small cover on the bottom of the rack, exposing the nut that holds the pinion shaft in. Then tap the pinion shaft, bearing, seal etc, out the top side of the rack, where the C clip was removed in step 1.

This shows the bottom cover and nut removed, exposing the threads on the bottom of the pinion shaft

Here are all the pieces that should now be out

Row 1: bottom cover, pinon nut, top pinion bearing, seals C clip

Row 2: lock nut, adjustment nut, spring, (yoke not shown)

Row 3: pinion shaft

4. Loosen the large nut at the end of the rack where the pressure ports are. This may vary depending on the exact rack design. (you’ll also need to remove the boot by cutting the clamps etc.) 

 5. Slide off the end rack cover exposing the shaft and the pressure seal and guide.

6. Remove the bolt that holds the pressure seal in place, then tap the seal off the end of the shaft. (DO NOT REMOVE THE GUIDE BUSHING)

7. Clean up the old shaft, pinion etc, regrease and reassemble

8. Plug the unused ports however you like. I welded up the holes in the tube nuts that I pulled from the pressure lines.

Rack cleaned up. 

Pressure port nuts welded up and everything painted (I have yet to decide how to plug the feed and return lines to the pump).

Tonight Im hoping to get it greased up and reassembled. Ill add the rest of the pics then.

Dan

Starting to come together… Today I did the following:

• machined the fuel rail for the hold down straps
• made the fuel rail straps and welded them to the intake flange
• welded the AN bungs to the fuel rail
• everything seems to fit nicely
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• pressed the 1/4-20 studs into the valve cover
• mounted the rubber stand offs and the coils to the valve cover
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• Installed the firewall braces
• Mounted the boost gauge bulkhead fitting to the firewall plate.
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Im really getting down to just some final details.

Dan

Its been a pretty busy week so far.

• Primed and painted the firewall braces.
• Shortened the fuel rail return hose to the FPR
• Re-installed the fuel pressure gauge sender (I still need a hole plug for the FPR gauge port that is unused)
• Finished the cold side charge pipe – cut out the hole for the BOV (I always cut and port them after welding) and beaded the ends.
• Installed the BOV and the vaccum line (complete with a nice Oettiker clamp)
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• Removed, welded shut, and ground smooth a notch in the valve cover – previously there for TB clearance on the old setup
• Also cleaned up the welds on the valve cover, repainted it and drilled holes for the press in studs (to mount the coils assembly onto) 
  Before                                       After
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• Finished up the Megasquirt mods. Added a peak and hold driver board for the injectors and a coil driver board inside the top cover. To make more room for the boards and two new connectors for Spark and Fuel I extended the sides and ends of the case. Also added functionality for boost control, IAC drive, and launch/flat shift control.
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• Painted and installed the firewall blockoff / wire connector bulkhead panel. I used some foam gasket tape around the edges so it can be removed easily and still seal.
• Re-routed the wiper motor wires to the new bulkhead connector
• Finished removing the leftover HVAC blower wiring
• Installed the main Megasquirt engine harness and the coil and injector harnesses.
• Re-routed the boost gauge tube to the new bulkhead area. I still need to install the bulkhead feed-thru fitting.
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I think that is it for this week so far. I’m sure I forgot something. I shouldnt skip an update.

Dan

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ALOT of progress tonight.

- smoothed, finished fitting and welded the plenum end cap

- cut, ported and welded the throttle body flange

- made the cold side charge pipe, including the BOV bung (that I had to cut off the old piping

All the intake needs now is some minor porting, sanding, and fuel rail straps made up and welded on.

Spent almost 5 hours on the stupid harnes tonight. I had to pull the old inside harness out, strip a bunch of wires off of the main MS harness, remove a firewall connector etc. Pretty much I re-pinned and re-wired the whole thing. I have 3 more wires to connect to the MS but I didnt have the schematic handy. Anyway, getting SOO close to being done with wiring.

Oh, added a shot of the injector harness I finished up last week.

Finally had a chance to make up the plenum end cap. Its not quite as round as I would have liked, but its def better than a flat plate. I will probably get it fit, smoothed and weled on tuesday nite.

Almost done with the engine harness wiring.

- coil harness is done

- injector harness just needs a backshell and the firewall connector attached

- firewall plate is almost drilled for the connectors. It still needs holes for the heater core plumbing